Tsuen Wan’s temples and traditions

Tsuen Wan is not only a conglomeration of luxurious high-rise housing estates, busy shopping malls and the shells of former factories, but also monasteries, temples, and historical buildings that showcase the lifestyles of Chinese clans in years past, as well as the religious and traditional beliefs of Hong Kong people today.

“This Hakka house is unique,” explains Chau Hing-wah, curator at the Intangible Cultural Heritage Office, which oversees the museum. “We’re lucky that this typical Hakka-style architecture, which is more than 200 years old, can be preserved, because in a big metropolis like Hong Kong conservation can be difficult.” While other Hakka houses exist throughout Hong Kong, most are not open to the public. And although the house is now a museum, Chau says that it still holds great meaning for the former village residents — especially the former ancestral hall, where the community would pay respects to their ancestors. “They have a lot of memories of this old house,” says Chan. “They organise trips to come back and recall their memories, even those who have already moved overseas.”

Behind the Sam Tung Uk Museum is a temple dedicated to Tin Hau, Goddess of the sea and seafarers. It’s one of the many institutions dedicated to local spirituality, which is a mix of Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism. A short drive away from the town centre in Lo Wai Village, the oldest village in Tsuen Wan, monks chant amid the tranquil surrounds of the Western Monastery with its traditional Buddhist art and architecture, including a nine-storey pagoda and a Bodhisattva statue. Nearby is the Yuen Yuen Institute, where monasteries, halls, and temples dedicated to all three spiritual practices nestle among serene ponds and lush greenery.

Tsuen Wan’s predominantly urban facade belies a deeply traditional area. The Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail is a hike through hidden villages, while the Fong Yuen Study Hall is a monument to the Chan clan and their pursuit to provide Confucian education to their village’s children. “Fashion and history merge in this area, depicting the change and development in Hong Kong,” Li says. Chau echoes the sentiment: “From a very small local settlement or fishing village, Tsuen Wan has now turned into a satellite town with a huge population. Behind the high rises, there’s a lot of local culture still there. Tsuen Wan is actually full of history.”