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Wan Chai – one day two ways
Vanessa and Erin both call Wan Chai home — Vanessa from the day she was born, and Erin since moving from the US to Hong Kong in 2015. They each share a half-day itinerary, featuring a few of their favourite things to do in the area. Vanessa opts for hiking and history, while Erin goes gaga for shopping, eating and nightlife. Between them they reveal two sides of this cosmopolitan, nonstop neighbourhood that’s an intoxicating mix of old and new, tradition and modernity.
Vanessa — heritage
I have lived in Wan Chai since I was a child and although it’s constantly changing, I love its energy and convenience — it has a proper city feel, but with access to The Peak’s trails and the harbour. One of my fondest memories as a child was playing hide and seek after school in the old tenement building right next to the Blue House. The people living there used to share everything — the kitchen, bathroom and even the telephone. My friend has moved, but I’m happy the building is still there. If it’s snack time, I’ll head to Car Noodle’s Family on Anton Street. It’s a basic hole-in-the-wall eatery, with no dining tables, but it has air con and it’s my favourite in the area. The delicious Hong Kong-style noodles come with various toppings and homemade chilli or satay sauces.
The historic Blue House, on Stone Nullah Lane, has been spruced up with a lick of bright blue paint. Built in the 1920s, this four-storey balconied building is a colourful reminder of Hong Kong’s fast-disappearing tenements. If visiting later, catch a guided tour by the House of Stories (2pm and 4pm daily), part of the community-based St James Settlement, which promotes the area’s historic attractions, including Blue House’s siblings Yellow House and Orange House and the colonial-era Old Wan Chai Post Office. At the end of Stone Nullah Lane, on On Lung Street, is the beautiful Pak Tai Temple — the biggest temple on Hong Kong Island. The Urban Renewal Authority has produced a handy Wan Chai Heritage Trail leaflet and map that highlights key buildings and streets, and can be downloaded from their website.
After a morning of exercising my body and mind, I like to take the Star Ferry from Wan Chai Pier over to Tsim Sha Tsui and back; I used to go with my grandpa when I was little, and still love the gentle chug across the harbour — it forces you to slow down. It’s also lovely as the sun sets and all the buildings switch on their lights — Hong Kong’s skyline at night is just wonderful.
Erin — shopping & nightlife
The first time I visited Hong Kong I got lost in Wan Chai. I was overwhelmed by the rush of the neighbourhood, all the colours, scents and sounds. A few months later, I moved to Hong Kong, and found myself drawn to Wan Chai by the unique character of the area, the mix between old and new and the big city buzz.
Wan Chai is a bustling neighbourhood with plenty of hidden treasures — I love Star, Moon, and Sun Streets for indie shopping, restaurants and bars. It’s mostly pedestrianised, so easy to navigate on foot, and the older, low-rise buildings make a lovely contrast to Hong Kong’s glittery skyscrapers. Since most of the stores don’t open until late morning, there’s no point in hitting the retail trail until lunchtime, at the earliest.
First stop is lunch at Pici, a cute two-floor shophouse serving a small menu of handmade pasta, cold cuts and creamy burrata. You can’t reserve a table, so avoid peak meal times. Sated, I zip around the warren of lanes in the area, dipping in and out of shops along the way. A few favourites include cult perfumer Le Labo, which allows you to customise your scents, and Odd One Out, a small gallery showing vibrant artworks and wood cuts, with a cafe if you need a quick espresso shot. If you’re looking for gorgeous gifts for the little ones, then Petit Bazaar is the place for the cutest and chicest toys, and OVO is worth a browse for contemporary furniture and objects with an Asian twist.
From Star Street, it’s a 15-minute walk to what I call ‘old Wan Chai’. To me, this consists of Hennessey, Lockhart and Jaffe Roads, which are large tram-and-car-crammed thoroughfares, lined with greige tower blocks, bright neon signage, and a stream of pedestrians — quintessential Hong Kong. If it’s wine o’clock, I head to The Optimist on Hennessey, which I love for its unpretentious vibe, retro styling and excellent Happy Hour.
If I have guests staying I take them to Wooloomooloo, a laidback rooftop bar with a quirky drinks menu and amazing views — it’s a less busy alternative to some of the better-known rooftop bars in town. For food, I nip into always-popular 22 Ships for a modern take on tapas; then for a nightcap, Djibouti, hidden down an alleyway, has a gleaming purple bar with vintage decor.
The Hong Kong Tourism Board disclaims any liability as to the quality or fitness for purpose of third party products and services; and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy, adequacy or reliability of any information contained herein.
Information in this guide is subject to change without advance notice. Please contact the relevant product or service providers for enquiries.
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide, the Hong Kong Tourism Board and LUXE City Guides accept no responsibility for any obsolescence, errors or omissions contained herein.
