Explore the quiet of Yuen Long

Lest you think Hong Kong is all glinty skyscrapers and luxury malls, the Ping Shan Heritage Trail shows an altogether different side to the territory. This trail, the first of its kind in Hong Kong, weaves about 1.6 kilometres through the low-rise residential neighbourhoods of Hang Mei Tsuen, Hang Tau Tsuen and Sheung Cheung Wai and highlights the importance of the district to the city’s history.

It’s a fascinating amble featuring a series of well-preserved ancestral halls, temples and courtyards built by the Tang clan, who were thought to have settled here in the 12^th century. Long time Yuen Long resident, Ms Tang, says of the heritage attractions: “I think it helps people look back and understand the old-time village culture, the ancient architecture and traditions of worship in Hong Kong, and creates a sense of nostalgia.”

Most visitors to Ping Shan will arrive by MTR and hop off at MTR Tin Shui Wai Station.  The first stop is the nearby Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda, a simple, elegant structure built during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), and the only one of its kind in Hong Kong. From here, wend your way through the village for more historic, grey-brick buildings with distinctive sweeping tiled roofs and ceramic figurines.

You will also meander past Kun Ting and Yan Tun Kong Study Halls, the impressive 700-year-old Tang Ancestral Hall and 500-year-old Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall, temples, courtyards and the village well. In Ping Shan, modern, everyday life flourishes alongside the traditional; boxy apartment blocks are tightly packed in next to historical monuments, while children whizz past their grandparents’ well-tended gardens on bicycles.

On the Hong Kong ‘Monopoly’ board, Yuen Long was once one of the cheapest locations. While this may no longer be true, the area still offers more affordable, spacious housing than most other parts of the city. Unpolished and low-key, the district is defined by its light railway, dai pai dongs, laid-back atmosphere, and more homegrown stores than global retail chains.

Leaving MTR Yuen Long Station, it’s a five-minute shuffle to Yau San Street, a winding road lined with duck and wonton noodle restaurants, ramen stalls and traditional bakeries. Mr Wong, who works at popular Hang Heung Cake Shop, says: “I have lived here all my life, and travel to work by light railway from Tin Shui Wai. For me, the food in this area is delicious — there are many things to try on these two streets (Yau San Street and Yau Tsoi Street).

On Tai Tong Road, you’ll find the charming Old Fung Tea House, a tiny vintage-feel cubby complete with 1950s tiled walls and floors, old-school signage and bare-bulb lighting. Fung’s is known for its steaming-fresh dim sum and free-pour Pu’er tea, served to a revolving clientele of school kids, elderly couples and workmen. Long queues form at peak hours and on holidays, but it’s open all day (until 11pm), so stage your visit to avoid popular meal times and you can cosy on up in a booth. The quirky interiors and people-watching are as good as the food.