Tung Chung to Tai O: from the modern to the ancient in North Lantau

The hike from Tung Chung to Tai O takes you from a satellite city of towering skyscrapers to a traditional fishing village, with some spectacular scenery along the way.

Start your day by getting in touch with North Lantau’s history, visiting Tung Chung Fort which was once an important part of the defences along this stretch of coastline under the Qing dynasty (1644 –1911). Cross over the main road to join the Tung O Ancient Trail, which begins in the mangrove-lined mudflats of the Tung Chung River estuary and takes in Hau Wong Temple — built in 1765 and still a place of worship today.

The route takes you under Ngong Ping cable car, and it runs parallel to Hong Kong International Airport and the engineering marvel that is the 55-kilometre-long Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. But you soon leave the modern world behind as you move further in the direction of Tai O and begin to immerse yourself in the old ways of Hong Kong island life.

Tai O traditions

The walk itself is undemanding. It meanders along the North Lantau coastline past a succession of bays and villages that have remained unchanged for decades.

After a section of unpaved track — and the best views on the hike — you descend into Tai O, which became a home to fishermen during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), taking in the heady aromas of dried fish and shrimp paste as you wander past the stilted houses of the local fisherfolk to reach the main village.

Once in Tai O you can stock up on salted egg yolks and sun-dried salted fish, or enjoy snacks such as tofu pudding and Chinese sweet dumplings either steamed or cooked over charcoal. Enjoy a coffee at the heritage hotel that was converted from a listed colonial police station, or head up a small hill called Fu Shan where you can enjoy stunning views over the airport and bridge. Or simply sit back with a cold beer and soak in the atmosphere of this charming throwback to old Hong Kong.