Hiking Sai Kung’s trails

With one of the highest population densities in the world, and one that keeps growing, Hong Kong sees constant development, even in rural areas. Sai Kung, however, has largely been spared the excesses of urban sprawl, and consists mostly of country parks and remote, pristine beaches. Sai Kung’s town centre only makes up a modicum of the area — go beyond that and you’ll discover the beginning of the renowned 100-kilometre MacLehose Trail; the Sai Kung section of the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark, where volcanic rocks create a stunning landscape; and the secluded Sai Wan Beach, where its two waterfalls and natural freshwater pools are tucked between two steep hills. Most of this natural beauty is only accessible on foot, making Sai Kung a paradise for hikers and runners.

Hong Kong Hiking’s MeetUp.com group, the largest organised hiking group in Hong Kong, is testament to how popular hiking is here. Founded 13 years ago, the group comprises over 21,000 members, 130 of whom are hike leaders who organise about 1,700 hikes per year, catering to all fitness levels. SK Shum, the group’s founder, says: “Sai Kung has a great variety of well-maintained hiking trails, whether an easy paved path along the High Island Reservoir, or tough mountain hikes.”

The most popular hiking trail bar none, however, is Stage 2 of the MacLehose Trail, which runs through Sai Kung Country Park and continues across the New Territories. “Mac 2 is one of the most scenic hiking trails in Hong Kong, facing several raw beaches,” explains SK Shum. “It also presents a challenge with hilly ups and downs, steep slopes, and loose sand and stones.”

Steve Pheby adds: “The views when you come over the hill and look out at the three lonely beaches is the polar opposite of what people outside Hong Kong expect.” Should you prefer running over hiking, Pheby favours Stage 4 of the trail, a challenging route with steep climbs and the occasional glimpse of paragliders, who take off from nearby Ngong Ping plateau (not to be confused with the Ngong Ping on Lantau Island).