Lost in Tai Po’s woods

When the British first arrived in Hong Kong, Foreign Secretary Lord Palmerston famously described it as a “barren island.” It wasn’t an exaggeration. Centuries of human habitation had left most of Hong Kong denuded. From the tip of Hong Kong Island all the way up to the Sham Chun River, most hills and valleys were covered only by grass and scrub.

It wasn’t always like that. Hong Kong was once a land covered in thick broadleaf rainforest; there were tigers and deer. Things began to change when several waves of settlers from northern China established themselves and forest was gradually cleared away for farmland and fuel. By the mid-19th century, the only original forest left was in the feng shui woods maintained by villagers for good luck.

The colonial government began a reforestation programme in 1873. Although it faced several setbacks — especially during World War II, when much of the new forest was razed for fuel — the tree-planting effort has once again blanketed much of Hong Kong in woodland. And while most of it is secondary forest, meaning it doesn’t have quite the biodiversity of old-growth woods, some of Hong Kong’s oldest reforestation areas offer a remarkable gateway into natural life.

Today, a visit to the Kadoorie Farm is a window into Hong Kong’s natural universe. As you make your way up to Kwun Yam Shan, the farm's highest point at 548 metres above sea level, you'll encounter beautifully maintained gardens, experimental agriculture and woodland filled with native species. You can meander along the 12 easy nature trails and take advantage of guided tours that take place twice every weekday — once in the morning and once in the afternoon. Or you can make your own way along one of the suggested walking routes that take between one and three hours to complete.

The Little Fish Loop follows a tranquil stream that was historically used by villagers to reach a holy spot on top of the mountain. The Never Never Loop begins in an orchid sanctuary before meandering through a forest named after Peter Pan's Neverland because it has such a magical feel. The Sky Loop is the farm's highest trail, with sweeping views over the New Territories and a visit to an experimental tree-planting site.

There’s something new to see whatever the time of year. January is the month when bauhinias — Hong Kong’s official flower — are in bloom. In April, garlands of pineapple orchids hang from the trees. Summer is a fruit season, when you’ll see bananas, papayas, pomelos and pineapples ripening in the woods. Lychee trees are especially popular with monkeys; don’t be alarmed if you spot some simians lounging on their branches as they enjoy an afternoon snack.

Even if you’re not an ornithology enthusiast, Tai Po Kau’s thick vegetation makes it a spectacular place for a stroll. “There are fine trails here,” says Williams. He particularly enjoys the Red and Blue Trails that run in the lower part of the valley, close to a picturesque stream. “In places, you pass through woodlands a little like tropical jungle,” he says. It’s a reminder of nature’s resilience — and how Hong Kong is barren no more.