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Western District - insiders' favourites
Hong Kong’s Western District is a microcosm of the city’s urban evolution. Gaze at relics from Imperial times, buy souvenirs from traditional craftsmen, enjoy a high-end meal at a sushi bar; Western District contains experiences that span both eras and cultures.
Here are some of our top picks.
Sai Wan Swimming Shed
At the bottom of a set of steep stairs off Victoria Road in Kennedy Town is a green shack originally built some 50 years ago for swimmers to change into bathing costumes. It is said to be Hong Kong’s last swimming shed, one that’s still used by a few hardy souls before taking a dip in the sea. Though nowadays, it is one of the city’s worst-kept-secret spots for sunsets.
Tak Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant
Tak Kee has been around for decades, and is a Kennedy Town institution, a Kennedy Town institution for a deliciously authentic family dining experience that is popular with the Chiu Chow community. Brightly lit and noisy, diners flock here for the food, not the decor. The extensive menu includes specials pasted up on the restaurant walls, so it helps to have someone who can read Chinese; you won’t go wrong with braised meats, especially the goose. Crisp oyster pancake and fried duck with taro puree are also safe bets, though plenty of offal is available for adventurous eaters.
University Museum & Art Gallery
Founded in 1953, the University of Hong Kong’s museum is a little-known treasure trove of Chinese calligraphy and paintings, wood carvings, pottery, ceramics and bronzes. Claiming to be the oldest continually operated museum in Hong Kong, its collection of objects date back to the Neolithic period and spans the great Chinese dynasties. Ceramics are a highlight — green celadon, blue and white porcelain and myriad other glazes. The museum is open to the public and admission is free, and guided tours can also be arranged. End your visit with a cuppa at the Tea Gallery.
Ping Pong Gintonería
Few places embody the hip side of Sai Ying Pun like Ping Pong Gintonería. A scarlet-red door conceals a serious basement watering hole, in what used to be a ping-pong parlour. Interiors are a study in modern-industrial chic, with concrete floors and pillars, high ceilings, neon signs and edgy contemporary art. Wine and beer are available, and drinkers can graze from the tapas menu, but you’re really here for the gin, and Ping Pong has an extensive selection of boutique and speciality bottles you won’t find elsewhere.
Okra Bar
Blink and you could easily miss the entrance to Okra Bar, a sushi restaurant tucked away in a quiet pocket of Sai Ying Pun. With only eight seats at a simple white-tiled counter, it can feel like chef-proprietor Max Levy is cooking just for you. A single omakase set menu that changes daily is offered, and usually includes five appetisers, 10 pieces of the finest seasonal sushi, two warm dishes and dessert. Aged fish is a speciality and the wine list features rare and unusual saké. Reservations are essential.
Tuck Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company
Mention dim sum and people think of delectable morsels steamed in bamboo baskets. The reality is that most of these baskets are now factory-made in Mainland China, but one workshop remains on Hong Kong Island that continues to make them — as well as a heap of other bamboo utensils — by hand. Like many of the city’s artisan businesses, the workshop was in danger of closing, but renewed interest in local craftsmanship has boosted the profile of this outstanding family business. The baskets make excellent souvenirs and gifts, and custom orders can be arranged.
The Hong Kong Tourism Board disclaims any liability as to the quality or fitness for purpose of third party products and services; and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy, adequacy or reliability of any information contained herein.
Information in this guide is subject to change without advance notice. Please contact the relevant product or service providers for enquiries.
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide, the Hong Kong Tourism Board and LUXE City Guides accept no responsibility for any obsolescence, errors or omissions contained herein.
