Yau Tsim Mong markets

It’s early in the evening and something unusual is happening on Hong Lok Street, an unassuming little lane that runs through congested Mong Kok. Lights have been strung across the lane and a crowd of people has gathered around a typical green market stall. Some are sipping fresh orange juice from the fruit stall next door; others hold cans of beer.

Inside the green stall is a collection of prints by local illustrator Little Thunder; this is the opening party for her latest exhibition. It’s not exactly what you would expect from a market stall, but Hong Kong’s street markets defy expectations. You’ll find tourist trinkets, surplus designer clothing, fresh flowers, a bewildering array of foodstuffs — and maybe even some neighbourly conversation.

The Hong Lok Street stall is Macha, a creative new venture by photographers Mandy Yeung and Bo Hui. Open only on weekends, it sells a curated selection of accessories, home products and artworks. It’s part of a new generation of market vendors that are trying to do something a little different. A brisk walk away in Yau Ma Tei, community activist Irene Hui helps run Hung Kee Good, a cheerful purple stall that stocks tote bags and other fabric products made by local seamstresses.

It’s a place where you can witness how street markets bind the city together, where neighbours — known as kaifong, after the streets and lanes they share — nod hello and chat with hawkers. Whether they’re selling artworks or avocados, it’s in these markets that Hong Kong feels most alive.

Temple Street wraps up around midnight, but not far away, the Gwo Laan wholesale market in Yau Ma Tei is just getting started. In recent years, more and more retail shops have opened in this century-old fruit market, offering succulent seasonal produce from around the world. It truly comes to life in the wee hours of the morning, when the wholesale vendors kick into gear. Stand back and marvel: it’s the beating heart of Hong Kong’s market life.